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To Everything There is a Season

April 15, 2008 by Pamela Parker Caird 4 Comments

It seems we’re all getting in touch with the seasonality of our vegetables, thanks to folks like Michael Pollan. (You mean tomatoes and zucchini taste better in summer?) But have you ever thought about the best times of year for other foods? Zoe Brickley at cheese-mecca Murray’s has written a wonderful treatise on the seasonality of various cheeses. It all has to do with the breeding cycles (and resulting milking cycles) of the grazing animals, of course.

A brief excerpt, after a lament about the unavailability of ewe’s milk cheeses this time of year:

If you’d like to finger blame, please look past the sap responsible for sourcing your farmstead picks, and focus instead on Mother Nature’s convention of short-day breeding. While humans and cows follow a lunar cycle of fertility, a ewe’s inner Gaia revolves around the solstice. I think it has something to do with serotonin levels and pituitary glands, but the basic result is that all sheep in our longitudinal neck of the woods can only breed during the shortest days of the year. Here lies some of the pain and the beauty of cheese seasonality.

Filed Under: Food & Drink

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Comments

  1. Shawna

    April 17, 2008 at 6:05 am

    I haven’t followed the link to see if this is mentioned in the article, but (seeing as I was raised on a hobby farm) I think it’s also worth considering the effect the forage has on milk products such as cheeses. When an animal grazes outside in the summer on fresh grass, clover, etc., the milk they produce is much richer and stronger-tasting than what they produce in the winter when it’s all dry feed such as hay. This influences both the flavour and the colour of the products made from milk, such as butter and cheese, so if you’re looking for deeper, richer, creamier flavour, you’re more likely to get it in products made from summer milk.

    Reply
  2. Shawna

    April 17, 2008 at 2:05 pm

    I haven’t followed the link to see if this is mentioned in the article, but (seeing as I was raised on a hobby farm) I think it’s also worth considering the effect the forage has on milk products such as cheeses. When an animal grazes outside in the summer on fresh grass, clover, etc., the milk they produce is much richer and stronger-tasting than what they produce in the winter when it’s all dry feed such as hay. This influences both the flavour and the colour of the products made from milk, such as butter and cheese, so if you’re looking for deeper, richer, creamier flavour, you’re more likely to get it in products made from summer milk.

    Reply
  3. Pamela

    April 17, 2008 at 2:41 pm

    Shawna, yes, the author of the article does address issues like that. It’s so fascinating to me to see how the changes throughout the year — due to forage, due to breeding cycles, due to the way farmers deal with their animals — affect taste… and probably nutrition, as well, in ways I’m only barely aware of.

    Reply
  4. Pamela

    April 17, 2008 at 6:41 am

    Shawna, yes, the author of the article does address issues like that. It’s so fascinating to me to see how the changes throughout the year — due to forage, due to breeding cycles, due to the way farmers deal with their animals — affect taste… and probably nutrition, as well, in ways I’m only barely aware of.

    Reply

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